Spokes & Nipples

SIMPLE WORLD OF SPOKES AND NIPPLES

Considering highly sofosticated engeenering found in hubs, carbon rims, this part actualy is the simplest part of the whole wheel.

Spoke is indeed very simple component in bicycle wheel from engeenering point of view but plays the most significant and highly demanding role.

Most common material for years have been stainless steel, another one is carbon fibre but not available to market as standalone component to buy.

That was episode in bicycle world in past with titanium spokes, but this material was not good for spokes. To soft and very tensile under tension applied

to both ends of the spoke.

For years I have been using to main brands:

DT SWISS
SAPIM

In many different configurations depending on hubs and rims and off course individual choice of rider.

All spokes from these two brands have nearly identical phisical properties so you do not loose anything by going for one or the other.

My personal choice is DT Swiss for most of the builds I do, specially with alumium nipples.

Also it does matter what brand you want to gor for if it comes to aluminium nipples mentioned above.

I think that DT Swiss alu nipples come in nicer, more vivid colors so I preffer them over Sapim.

In that situations you need to stay within the same brand to have matching spoke and nipple configuration to have perfect connection on both threads (spoke and nipple). More about nipples further down in this tech section.

Spokes come in three main specifications:

Plain – The same diameter all the way along the spoke 2mm, general use for touring, commuting, kids bikes etc. Well balanced strenght to price.
Butted (double butted) – usually 2.0mm-1.8mm-2.0mm or 2.0mm-1.6mm-1.8mm, commonly used as main option for off road, road, touring wheels. Best combination of weight, strenght and durability both for racing and general cycling.
Triple butted – no real benefit of using this spokes in wheel building now days unless you are weight winnie (DT Swiss Revolution)
Bladed – very often seen in racing wheels. Bladed spokes allow for highest spoke tension from all spokes and they are very aerodynamic.

They also come in few types and options, from the left: J bend spokes (most popular type), straight pull (more hubs every year offer that option – Hope, DT Swiss, Shimano), J bend bladed and straight pull bladed spokes (most popular choice on front road racing wheels and drive or non drive side on rear wheel).

COLORFUL WORLD OF NIPPLES

Advantage of living in 21st century is fact that you can really personalized your choice of wheels including such small element which is nipple.

Wide range of options from material wise through shape and color gives you endless choice.

Main materials used to produce nipples:

BRASS – very roubust, reliable sort of build and forget one.

ALUMINIUM – lighter then brass, very strong when used properly with range of colors giving you nice little finishing accent to the whole wheel and bike. Very reliable if used properly. They also come in STANDARD version and PRO LOCK with sort of gentle locktight applied on therad inside nipple to prevent spoke from loosening up. I use these nipples very rarely.

The most common question/warning of all times found in bicycle industry is: WHAT? ALU NIPPLES? STAY AWAY FROM THEM! or I HATE THEM!

My answer was and still is the same, YES, YOU CAN GO FOR ALUMINIUM NIPPLES, THERE IS NO PROBLEM AT ALL IF THEY ARE USED PROPERLY.

I have been involved in many conversation about aluminium nipples on bicycle forums all over the internet also talking to cyclists for many years.

Obviously implentation is the key for long rolling wheels on alu nipples plus maintenance is even more crucial to have full joy from having nice pair of wheels with ie. blue or red (my favourite colors) or any other nice color alu nipples.

Main problem which I can see from my technical point of view is lack of knowledge and information about how to build wheel with alu nipples and how to look after it once built.

I always keep my alu and brass nipples in oil bath so whenever I build wheels with either nipples they are nicely lubricated prior to wheel build process preventing them from seizing up.

Correct spoke tension is second most important factor, if you go to high with spoke tension alu nipples may start cracking or rounding off pretty easilly.

Third and the last to remember is maintenance of your light, nice looking performance wheels. Regularly clean your wheels and from time to time relube alu nipples to make sure they are not dry.

That is all you need to remember. Do not be affraid to build your wheels with nice colorful nipples.

I have built hundreds of wheels with alu nipples including my wheels with red or blu alu DT Swiss nipples on XC racing bikes and even on my turing steel bikes and I’ve never had any problems whatsoever.

They look fantastic and perform very well. You can see some of my wheels in gallery.

Whenever I need to retrue wheel all nipples are easy to turn with no issues.

Most of factory racing wheels (if built correctly) are built with alu nipples either internal or standard external ones.

Some more informations about nipples.

They come as standard (external), hidden (mainly in carbon racing wheels), with different shape of the head (rounded or hexagonal or new DT Swiss Sqorx).

They also come in different gauge 13G (2.3mm), 14G (2.0mm – most common across all types of wheels), 15G (1.8mm – lighter for weigh weenies), 16G (1.6mm) and lenght 12mm (most common) but also 14mm, 16mm (recommended by Mavic for their Fore rims)

Last with regards to importance but very interestinghly they come in many gorgeous colors: red, blu, green, gold, torquoise, purple, black and silver so you match up few colors on your bike. I like wheels with a bit of funky looking.

Look below at gallery of few different types and colors of nipples, from the left: colorful DT Swiss alu nipples, DT Swiss black alu nipple with prolock, prolock head pro squorx brass nipple silver (new type designed by DT swiss), DT Swiss prolock alu hidden nipples, Sapim polyax colorful alu nipples and Sapim polyax colorful alu nipples with hex head.

What spokes and nipples to get?

If you are looking for racing wheels either road or off road wheels I would recommend you to go for double butted spokes and alu nipples (you can also go for brass niplles if you do not want alu ones) and maybe bladed spokes for deeper profile rims to keep wheels more aero.

If you are looking for all around wheels (commuting, touring or general XC) I would say go for double butted spokes or even plain spokes and brass nipples.

Above all of the recommendations I strongly advice individual approach to particular situation to have the best set up possible.

SIMPLE WORLD OF SPOKES AND NIPPLES

Considering highly sofosticated engeenering found in hubs, carbon rims, this part actualy is the simplest part of the whole wheel.

Spoke is indeed very simple component in bicycle wheel from engeenering point of view but plays the most significant and highly demanding role.

Most common material for years have been stainless steel, another one is carbon fibre but not available to market as standalone component to buy.

That was episode in bicycle world in past with titanium spokes, but this material was not good for spokes. To soft and very tensile under tension applied

to both ends of the spoke.

For years I have been using to main brands:

DT SWISS

SAPIM

In many different configurations depending on hubs and rims and off course individual choice of rider.

All spokes from these two brands have nearly identical phisical properties so you do not loose anything by going for one or the other.

My personal choice is DT Swiss for most of the builds I do, specially with alumium nipples.

Also it does matter what brand you want to gor for if it comes to aluminium nipples mentioned above.

I think that DT Swiss alu nipples come in nicer, more vivid colors so I preffer them over Sapim.

In that situations you need to stay within the same brand to have matching spoke and nipple configuration to have perfect connection on both threads (spoke and nipple). More about nipples further down in this tech section.

Spokes come in three main specifications:

Plain – The same diameter all the way along the spoke 2mm, general use for touring, commuting, kids bikes etc. Well balanced strenght to price.

Butted (double butted) – usually 2.0mm-1.8mm-2.0mm or 2.0mm-1.6mm-1.8mm, commonly used as main option for off road, road, touring wheels. Best combination of weight, strenght and durability both for racing and general cycling.

Triple butted – no real benefit of using this spokes in wheel building now days unless you are weight winnie (DT Swiss Revolution)

Bladed – very often seen in racing wheels. Bladed spokes allow for highest spoke tension from all spokes and they are very aerodynamic.

COLORFUL WORLD OF NIPPLES

Advantage of living in 21st century is fact that you can really personalized your choice of wheels including such small element which is nipple.

Wide range of options from material wise through shape and color gives you endless choice.

Main materials used to produce nipples:

BRASS – very roubust, reliable sort of build and forget one.

The most common question/warning of all times found in bicycle industry is: WHAT? ALU NIPPLES? STAY AWAY FROM THEM! or I HATE THEM!

My answer was and still is the same, YES, YOU CAN GO FOR ALUMINIUM NIPPLES, THERE IS NO PROBLEM AT ALL IF THEY ARE USED PROPERLY.

I have been involved in many conversation about aluminium nipples on bicycle forums all over the internet also talking to cyclists for many years.

Obviously implentation is the key for long rolling wheels on alu nipples plus maintenance is even more crucial to have full joy from having nice pair of wheels with ie. blue or red (my favourite colors) or any other nice color alu nipples.

Main problem which I can see from my technical point of view is lack of knowledge and information about how to build wheel with alu nipples and how to look after it once built.

I always keep my alu and brass nipples in oil bath so whenever I build wheels with either nipples they are nicely lubricated prior to wheel build process preventing them from seizing up.

Correct spoke tension is second most important factor, if you go to high with spoke tension alu nipples may start cracking or rounding off pretty easilly.

Third and the last to remember is maintenance of your light, nice looking performance wheels. Regularly clean your wheels and from time to time relube alu nipples to make sure they are not dry.

That is all you need to remember. Do not be affraid to build your wheels with nice colorful nipples.

I have built hundreds of wheels with alu nipples including my wheels with red or blu alu DT Swiss nipples on XC racing bikes and even on my turing steel bikes and I’ve never had any problems whatsoever.

They look fantastic and perform very well. You can see some of my wheels in gallery.

Whenever I need to retrue wheel all nipples are easy to turn with no issues.

Most of factory racing wheels (if built correctly) are built with alu nipples either internal or standard external ones.

Some more informations about nipples.

They come as standard (external), hidden (mainly in carbon racing wheels), with different shape of the head (rounded or hexagonal or new DT Swiss Sqorx).

They also come in different gauge 13G (2.3mm), 14G (2.0mm – most common across all types of wheels), 15G (1.8mm – lighter for weigh weenies), 16G (1.6mm) and lenght 12mm (most common) but also 14mm, 16mm (recommended by Mavic for their Fore rims)

Last with regards to importance but very interestinghly they come in many gorgeous colors: red, blu, green, gold, torquoise, purple, black and silver so you match up few colors on your bike. I like wheels with a bit of funky looking.

What spokes and nipples to get?

If you are looking for racing wheels either road or off road wheels I would recommend you to go for double butted spokes and alu nipples (you can also go for brass niplles if you do not want alu ones) and maybe bladed spokes for deeper profile rims to keep wheels more aero.

If you are looking for all around wheels (commuting, touring or general XC) I would say go for double butted spokes or even plain spokes and brass nipples.

Above all of the recommendations I strongly advice individual approach to particular situation to have the best set up possible.

This Is A Custom Widget

This Is A Custom Widget